Compound Interest Calculator

The most important chart in personal finance: what happens when your money earns money. Add monthly contributions to see the effect of consistent investing.

Final balance
Total contributed
Interest earned
Growth multiple

How compound interest works

Simple interest pays you only on your original deposit. Compound interest pays you on your deposit plus all interest already earned — growth on growth. The formula for a lump sum is A = P(1 + r/n)nt, where n is how many times per year interest compounds. Monthly contributions are added at the end of each month and start compounding immediately.

Why starting early beats saving more

At 7% annual growth, money doubles roughly every 10 years (the "Rule of 72": 72 ÷ rate ≈ years to double). Someone who invests $250/month from age 25 to 35 and then stops typically ends up with more at 65 than someone who invests $250/month from 35 to 65 — the first decade of compounding does the heavy lifting.

What rate should you assume?

High-interest savings accounts: whatever your bank currently pays. Diversified stock index funds: 6–8% per year is a common long-run planning assumption before inflation, but returns vary hugely year to year. Being conservative in a plan beats being disappointed in retirement.

What time does to $300 a month

Same contribution, same 7% annual return. The only thing that changes is how long it runs:

YearsYou contributedGrowthFinal balance
10$36,000$15,925$51,925
20$72,000$84,278$156,278
30$108,000$257,991$365,991
40$144,000$643,444$787,444

Read the growth column rather than the balance. Over 10 years, growth is less than half of what you put in. By 40 years it is four and a half times your contributions. Doubling the time from 20 to 40 years doesn't double the result — it multiplies it by five.

That's the entire argument for starting early, and it's why the last decade before retirement produces the largest absolute gains: the balance compounding is at its biggest, even though you're contributing no more than before.

The Rule of 72

Divide 72 by your annual return to estimate the years until money doubles. At 7%, roughly 72 ÷ 7 ≈ 10.3 years. It also works in reverse for inflation: at 3%, prices double in about 24 years — which is why cash under a mattress loses half its purchasing power in a generation.

Where fees quietly eat the result

A fund charging 2% a year turns a 7% gross return into 5% net. Over 30 years on $300 a month, that difference costs well over $100,000 of final balance — money that goes to the fund manager rather than to you. Reduce the "annual return" in the calculator by your fund's expense ratio to see your own realistic number. This is why low-cost index funds have become the default recommendation for long-horizon investors.

Frequently asked questions

Does compounding frequency really matter?
Less than people think. $10,000 at 7% for 20 years yields about $38,697 compounded annually versus $40,387 compounded monthly — a real but modest difference. The rate and time horizon matter far more.
Is interest from savings taxable?
Usually yes, unless held in a tax-sheltered account (TFSA/RRSP in Canada, ISA in the UK, 401(k)/IRA in the US). Tax-sheltered compounding is dramatically more powerful because nothing is skimmed off each year.
What about inflation?
This calculator shows nominal growth. To think in today's dollars, subtract expected inflation from your return — e.g., use 4–5% instead of 7% if you assume 2–3% inflation.
Are contributions added at the start or end of each month?
End of month, which is the conservative convention. Contributing at the start of each month yields slightly more.
Is a 7% return realistic?
It's a common long-run planning figure for a diversified stock portfolio before inflation, based on decades of historical averages. But no year is average: markets fall 20%+ in bad years and rise 25% in good ones. Use 6–7% for long-horizon planning, and something far lower for money you'll need within five years.
What if I can't afford $300 a month?
Start with whatever you can and raise it later. The calculator scales linearly — $100 a month produces exactly a third of these figures. Getting started matters far more than the opening amount, because the early years buy you the compounding time that produces the large numbers.
Should I invest a lump sum or spread it out?
Historically, investing a lump sum immediately has beaten spreading it out roughly two-thirds of the time, simply because markets rise more often than they fall. But spreading it reduces the regret risk of investing everything the day before a crash. If a bad first month would make you abandon the plan, spreading it out is the better behavioural choice even at a slightly lower expected return.