Car Loan Calculator

Work out your real monthly car payment — including sales tax, trade-in value and down payment — before you set foot in the dealership.

Monthly payment
Amount financed
Total interest
Total cost (vehicle + interest)

What actually determines your car payment

The amount you finance is the vehicle price plus sales tax, minus your down payment and trade-in. That balance is amortized over the term at your interest rate — the same formula as any fixed loan. Two levers matter most: the amount financed (negotiate the price, bring a bigger down payment) and the term length.

The long-term trap

Dealers often pitch 72- or 84-month terms because they make expensive cars feel affordable. But longer terms mean more total interest and more time "underwater" — owing more than the car is worth as it depreciates. Compare a 60- vs 84-month term above: the payment drops, but watch the "Total interest" figure climb.

Rules of thumb

  • 20/4/10: 20% down, no more than a 4-year term, total vehicle costs under 10% of gross income.
  • Get pre-approved by your bank or credit union first — it gives you a rate to beat and strengthens your negotiating position.
  • Negotiate the vehicle price, not the monthly payment. A "lower payment" often hides a longer, costlier term.

A worked example: what the term really costs

A $35,000 vehicle with 13% sales tax and $5,000 down means financing $34,550 at, say, 6.9%. Here is the same car on four different terms:

TermMonthly paymentTotal interestExtra vs 48 months
48 months$825.74$5,085.56
60 months$682.50$6,400.15+$1,315
72 months$587.39$7,741.76+$2,656
84 months$519.76$9,110.24+$4,025

Stretching from 48 to 84 months makes the car look $306 a month cheaper — and costs an extra $4,025 in interest for a vehicle you'll own three years later. This is the single most common way dealerships make an unaffordable car feel affordable.

Being "underwater" — the hidden risk of long terms

New vehicles typically lose a large share of their value in the first two to three years, while a long loan pays down principal slowly at the start. On an 84-month term you can easily owe more than the car is worth for the first three or four years. That matters if the car is written off in an accident — insurance pays market value, not your loan balance, leaving you owing the difference on a car you no longer have. Gap insurance covers this, and is worth pricing if your term runs past 60 months.

Before you walk into the dealership

  • Get pre-approved by your bank or credit union. You arrive with a rate to beat instead of accepting whatever finance desk offers.
  • Negotiate the vehicle price, never the monthly payment. "What can you afford per month?" is how a longer term gets substituted for a genuine discount.
  • Settle the price before mentioning a trade-in or financing. Bundling all three lets a discount on one be quietly recovered on another.
  • Read the add-ons line by line. Extended warranties, paint protection and undercoating are high-margin items and are always negotiable — or refusable.

Frequently asked questions

Is sales tax charged on the full price if I have a trade-in?
It depends on where you live. Many places (including most Canadian provinces and many US states) tax only the difference between the new car's price and your trade-in value. This calculator applies tax to the full price for a conservative estimate — your actual cost may be slightly lower.
What's a good interest rate on a car loan?
New-car rates for strong credit typically run a few points below used-car rates. Manufacturer financing promotions can be as low as 0–3.99%, while average used-car rates are often 7–11%. Your credit score is the biggest factor.
Should I finance or pay cash?
If the loan rate is higher than what your savings safely earn, paying more cash saves money. If you qualify for a genuine 0–2% promotional rate, financing and keeping your cash invested can make sense.
How much car can I afford?
A common guideline: all vehicle costs (payment, insurance, fuel, maintenance) under 15–20% of take-home pay. Use our salary calculator to find your monthly take-home, then work backwards.
Should I lease instead of finance?
Leasing gives a lower monthly payment for the same vehicle, but you own nothing at the end and face mileage limits plus wear-and-tear charges. Financing costs more per month and leaves you with an asset. Roughly: lease if you want a new car every 3–4 years and drive predictable mileage; finance if you keep vehicles long-term, which is almost always the cheaper path per kilometre driven.
Is dealer financing worse than a bank loan?
Not automatically. Manufacturer-subsidised promotions (0–3.99%) genuinely beat bank rates. But dealers can also mark up a lender's rate and keep the difference. Get a bank pre-approval first — then the dealer either beats it, or you use your own financing.
Should I take the cash rebate or the 0% financing?
They're usually mutually exclusive, so do the arithmetic. Run the loan here at your bank's rate with the rebate subtracted from the price, then run it at 0% without the rebate, and compare total cost. Large rebates often beat 0% on shorter terms.